I personally use Photoshop as little as I can, I will much prefer to get an image correct in camera for that reason I'm not investing time on each and every picture. The majority of my images have been shot on average 30 minutes.
A picture shot at mid day, may possibly be affected by harsh and high sunlight. To get over this I positioned my model in the shadows created by the branches of a large palm tree. I set up a sizable California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector in the direct sunlight reflecting soft warm illumination onto the front of the model.
I took a light measurement from the models face and photographed with shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White-colored balance set to daylight.
This image was shot on my small D2H with a 24mm to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal length set from 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my personal model to stress her limbs also and then we had a great connection regarding creating excellent energy and leading.
Notice my lens/eye level is in the middle of her torso, this is important when firing wide perspective and close to your own subject to prevent distortion, for instance if you shoot to high up your versions head will probably be big and her legs will look like they are brief like a hen and visa versa therefore its vital that you get your eye/camera lens degree at the proper just the height to prevent distortion,
I will most likely shoot from a lower angle, particularly if I am trying to emphasize the length of a designs legs regarding hosiery images.
To keep the sun as blue as possible I chance with a polarizing filter on my lens, looking towards the west of the midday sunshine. This is how you continue the sea and the sky blue in addition to making my models skin/tan look good an silky by eliminating some of the particular specular reflections on her behalf skin.
In the event that I had been capturing facing more to the east the skies and the ocean would have been far more burned away..
When I began shooting digital I had a lot of difficulties because I tried to shoot digital the same way that I shot movie. Now when I am shooting, I will always below expose from the meter studying, this is done a couple of of reasons, in order to saturate shade as well as to make sure I am not really loosing my own high lamps. Obviously my own images will be a little about the dark side however I can easily correct for this by using a little s curve inside Photoshop to start the actual retouching process.
I always shoot raw files and a tiny jpg, the reason why I will explain in another Little Gem.
I process my raw file as shot in camera raw from Bridge and open them in adobe Photoshop. (Raw files have a great deal more latitude re image information and will bring about much better quality pictures).
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